We have returned to Manila from our 5-night stay on the island, just in time for New Year's. This will our be our last in the Philippines and we have decided to stay in the city this year to watch what is said to be quite a spectacle of fireworks from our cocoon on the 30th floor.
It has been 2 years since our last trip to Palawan and again, it was one of the
Getting There is Half the Fun trips. One hour plane ride, half an hour through rural Coron, then an hour and a half by banca through the turquoise blue seas. We found quite a difference though when we landed at the Busuanga airport. Since we were there last, they've built a new terminal and lengthened the runway, allowing for much bigger planes to arrive. Last time we flew a 19-seater turbo prop with the co-pilot sitting in my lap. At the airport when checking in they no longer put you on the scales as well as your luggage, a practice which had its own diabolical charm.
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| Mangenguey Island |
The boat ride took us past islands and little beaches, fishing bancas and the occasional dive boat. We went past vast areas of floats, some large black balls, some cylindrical styrofoam. I knew it looked like some kind of a fish farm; I learned later that these are south sea pearl farms supposedly where the best come from. By the time we reached the island, I had an enormous smile on my face, blissed out completely by the color of the water and the smell of the air (fresh!). Within an hour we were in the water with masks and snorkels, me encased, skin almost completely covered, with long pants and shirt. On my
last snorkeling trip I was burned so badly it took 2 months for my skin to recover.
The reefs just off the beach are great and I spent as much time in the water as I could. It being Christmas and all I couldn't help remembering the first time I ever saw a world below the turquoise water. I was 25 and spending the holidays with a friend and her pals in the Bahamas. Everything was new to me - the warmth, the breezes, the open living - how beautifully weird it was to me, the northern gal. One night we went caroling on the dive boat stopping at docks along the inland waterway. I thought at that moment that I never wanted to see another Christmas snowflake again. Christmas night was magic - traditional dinner and tree and all, but after dinner under the moon I sat on the dock and watched jellyfish hovering below. Later, I went diving for the first time and fell madly in love with that most amazing experience of finding that beauty - while being able to breathe! What freedom and also a humbling feeling of being the intruder, the watcher. The whole experience was joyful and magical. I went home and got certified and returned when I could.
Now many years later, I still love the reef and a turquoise Christmas is still my favorite.
"The colors, man, the colors" are my grinning words now every time I walk (or crawl, depending on the waves) out of the water after hovering over the reef. One afternoon off the beach to the Left of the Dock I found a lone parrot fish among a huge number of other species feeding along the far end of the reef. This guy caught my eye immediately, an audible sigh (which sounds quite strange in the snorkel), oh how gorgeous, and I followed him for 45 minutes or so as he munched away at the coral rock.
Later on the reef to the Right of the Dock (official name) I saw dozens and dozens together - my Left Reef Parrotfish buddy must have been a loner, an exile, lost, a rebel.
Other pals I stalked...
and spotted a couple of Nemo's in the anemone...
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| Clownfish in Anemone |
The Island of Mangenguey is owned by a couple of escapees from New York. She is originally from Barcelona, he is an American. They have drawn on their design, fashion, restaurant and construction backgrounds to create a tiny resort of only a few buildings and where they live in their own cottage by the beach. I know now what the term "paying guests" means as the place is so small and so intimate that it felt like we were houseguests. During our time there people came and went but there were only between 6 and 10 people, including us, at any one time. Meals were served around a common table in the totally open air main floor. No menus. You got what you got (which was always delicious) when you got it. Our host would mix the drinks and hang out for awhile chatting. Senora was hands-on supervising the staff in the kitchen. Outside the main building where the living and dining area is, the famous Winter Solstice full moon this year lit up the water like an enormous spotlight. The sound of the waves was its background music.
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| Main house, our suite one of two on the second floor. |
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| Water Boat |
The logistics of running a place like this are pretty daunting. Everything comes from Manila. Not only all the materials that were used to build the numerous buildings on the island, but now, ALL food and dry good supplies. One morning I commented on the bread basket, which was filled with almond croissants and pan au chocolate and treats. "Who does the pastry?" It all comes in from Manila, from the same bakery we use. Flown-in croissants. Water is a particular challenge. They have installed a desalination plant, but it isn't working properly. The technician is due to come January 8th. Maybe. Meanwhile, every day a little banca delivers four big heavy orange barrels of freshwater that the guys have to roll up from the beach, along the path past the house and up the hill to wherever it is they take it. Daily.
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| One of two cottages on the beach |
I'm glad that Richard and Helena have chosen this life for awhile and are putting in the effort so we can come and do absolutely nothing, other than walk into the sea from time to time and sign the VISA slip. Staying there was exactly what I had wanted this Christmas - the luxury of total relaxation. That and a killer turquoise reef.
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