J-Pod

For a number of years we've stayed at a very special place when we're in Victoria. Right on the waterfront, 15 feet from the edge of Haro Strait, opposite San Juan Island stateside, with a soaring, snow capped Mount Baker in the distance, it is one of my very favourite places anywhere. Staying there is like living in a magical zoo. This year, we had been there less than an hour when a pack of otters swam by. Over the course of our week there we saw eagles, shore birds, seals, deer, racoons, hummingbirds, herons, rabbits. Human zoo as well. Passing through the strait are fishing boats, pleasure craft, freighters, cruise ships, military vessels, float planes and whale watching boats out of Victoria.

For a week I scanned the waters, always with binoculars by my side. Knowing they were out there somewhere, I searched for whales. Sometimes still in bathrobe, I began to feel a bit like the Maury Chaykin character in Whale Music. Searching in vain. Finally I announced defeat. "If the whales won't come to me, I'll have to go to the whales", meaning sign up for the whale watching boats. But before that could happen...

Early the next morning, our second to last day there, I heard a knock on the door. Our landlady announcing that whales were in the neighborhood - a big pod of them and would likely pass close by on their way across the Strait. She brought me down a telescope and, very excited, I went outside to wait. Sure enough, they appeared and the sight was beyond wonderful. A pod of Orca, about 20 I think, big and little (ha), jumping and blowing and flapping and being amazing. I stood there for about an hour watching them clearly through telescope and binoculars as they made their way across. My cheeks and jaws still have a memory ache from the grin on my face that day.

The whales are known as J-Pod and are resident in that area, although most of the time are over on the San Juan side of the Strait. They all have names - Ruffles the dominant male (named for his distinctive wavy dorsal fin), Granny the leader of the pack.

The highlight of my stay.

Photo of the reflections on the windows from Haro Strait from Haro House.
I couldn't take pictures but others have. Orca photos from Rolf Hicker.

Monica Wieland who lives on San Juan Island opposite has published a book of photos of these resident pods.