
A long time ago - several lifetimes ago - Raffles Hotel in Singapore came into my life. I don’t remember how I knew about it or what I knew about it, but I DO remember making a promise to a friend that we would meet in the bar in Raffles on a certain date, some years hence. For me, at that time, Raffles was the epitome of the exotic and the romantic – as far away as it was possible to go from my home in Montreal and the most unlikely place that I was ever to find my way to. Perhaps that was why I made the promise.
I missed the date. But for over 30 years, somewhere, in the back of my mind, has been the desire to be in Singapore, to see Raffles Hotel. Just to see it and to inhale the history and the stories. Perhaps that is all that is wise to inhale in Singapore.
This past weekend I saw Singapore. And the bar in Raffles.
Singapore is a beautiful city. Great first impression as you drive in from the airport. It is the most beautiful approach to a city from an airport I’ve yet to see. Miles of gorgeous blooming bougainvillea and huge shady trees. The city is easy to get around in –there is a great subway system, which we used, but taxis are so inexpensive it’s more fun to go that way, to see the town.
Great art – wonderful sculptures including these, the Botero bird and these amazing bronze children, along the promenade of the Singapore River.
Our hotel was on the Singapore River, opposite Clarke Quai, with its thriving bar and restaurant scene. It is the site of one of the weirdest concept restaurants I’ve seen so far (even weirder than the ice bar in Sydney) – called The Clinic. You have a choice of sitting on a wheelchair or a metal hospital bed. The tables are metal operating tables. The lighting is like that over an operating table. The dividers between tables are like old fashioned bed dividers. Imagine spending your Saturday night pretending you are in a hospital.
And…it was a busy place. Excuse me…I don’t get it!!!
Back to Raffles.

On Saturday evening we had arranged to meet some friends from Manila, who were also spending Easter weekend in Singapore, in the Long Bar at Raffles. The home of the Singapore Sling. Well, I did indeed order and consume the Singapore Sling, my first in 30 years, and it was just as disgusting as I had remembered it to be – but hey, no worries, what else are you going to drink at Raffles Long Bar? It is truly a beautiful room – high ceilings, wood floors and trim, great ceiling fans. Gorgeous Singapore tropical floor to ceiling windows and wooden shutters. Full of tourists. Everyone, including me it seems, wants to go to Raffles Long Bar for a drink.
It had the atmosphere of a cafeteria.
But... that’s not the worst of it. By far. They serve bowls of peanuts – in the shell – said shells one throws on the floor.
Oh, the Horror… the Horror. The Bar of My Dreams, My Romance and My Broken Promises – all ended on a floor covered with peanut shell garbage.
I’ll recover, I know I will.
The Raffles Hotel complex is one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. All I’d ever imagined it to be. However, it is now a tourist attraction and shopping arcade, because, guess what? Others before me, now, and those to come after me, have had a dream to see it. And to buy a branded something from the 5000 square foot gift shop.
Oh well. I have a new dream destination in mind for next year. Another dream. But I won’t mention it now, will keep all in suspense, in case someone else beats me to it…
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